Taylor’s Quinta De Vargellas Vinhas Velhas Vinha Velha Port – 2011

“As a reminder, the Vinha Vilha is a selection of old vine fruit from the terraces of Polverinho and Renova do Armazem. Comparing it directly with the Taylor’s, there is even more complexity and volume on the nose, with black currant, dark plum and a more accentuated crushed stone aroma that lends it wonderful terroir expression. Like the Fonseca, it develops compelling marine scents after 30-40 minutes in the glass, like stepping over rock pools when you were a kid. The palate is medium-bodied with sumptuous, sensual ripe tannins that layer the mouth. There is a palpable sense of harmony and composure to this Vinha Velha and there is a lot of horsepower, more so than the Taylor’s, on the multi-dimensional finish. The intensity of fruit means that it does not quite have the same degree of tension as the Taylor’s, but the depth and breadth of this young Port suggests it will be a seriously long-term fortified wine.” Neil Martin