Manincor, Lago di Cadaro
Italy’s mountainous Alto Adige wine region stretches approximately 135km from just north of Trento in the south up to the Brenner Pass and the Austrian border in the north, with Bolzano as its capital city. It is a great lifestyle and gastronomic destination, containing many of Italy’s most famous ski resorts, top Michelin-starred restaurants, and wonderful wellness hotels. As well as its thriving wine industry, it is one of Europe’s most important apple producers, with apple orchards spread across vast swathes of its valley floor.
The climate in Alto Adige can best be described as Alpine-Mediterranean, a land where north meets south. The Alps to the north protect the region from excessive rainfall, so it is surprisingly dry, with only 500mm-600mm rainfall per annum in the Valle Isarco district in the far north. It is also very sunny, receiving around 300 days of sunshine per year; in the summer Bolzano is often one of the warmest cities in Italy! But it is also windy, cooled by cold northerly winds from the Alps overnight and in the mornings, then warmed up in the afternoons by a warm wind known as the Ora, which blows up from Lake Garda in the south. These cause significant day-night temperature swings in the summer; temperatures often reach 35C in July and August in the heat of the afternoon, but at night they rarely rise above 15C. This gives the region’s wines an extra intensity of aromas and flavours and accentuates their acidity.
In general, the further south towards Trento you go, the warmer the climate, and the further north towards the Brenner, the cooler it gets. But different altitudes and exposures create a multitude of unique microclimates. East facing vineyards are cooler than west facing, as they are shaded from the warm late afternoon sun in the summer, and the higher the vineyard, the cooler its climate. Vineyards are planted from around 300m up to above 1200m in some areas!
Established in 1608, Manincor is a hugely impressive family winery, owned and managed by Count Michael Goess-Enzenberg (Il Conte) and his wife Countess Sophie (La Contessa). Manincor in Latin means “hand on heart” and a hand holding up a heart forms part of the family’s coat of arms. The name is totally appropriate to the overall ethos of the winery as (almost) all vineyard work is done by hand and the wines are truly wines of the heart!
When Count Michael took over the running of the winery in 1996, it still sold all its grapes to the local cooperative. He immediately started bottling and selling his own wines, from 2001-2004 built an amazing new, sustainable winery into the hill underneath their main vineyard, and from 2005-2009 converted the vineyards to organic and then biodynamic viticulture. Manincor is now one of the two leading biodynamic producers in the Alto Adige (the other is their neighbour Alois Lageder), with 50 hectares of vineyards based in the south of Alto Adige around the village and lake of Caldaro. No chemicals have been used in the vineyards since 2005 and sheep and chickens roam freely in the vineyards – a fantastic example of biodiversity in operation.
Manincor also own 40 hectares of oak forests on the opposite side of Lago di Caldaro which they use to make their own oak casks, even seasoning the oak themselves for three years outside the winery. You very rarely, if ever, see such meticulous attention to detail, but Count Michael started life as a carpenter and is clearly very gifted when it comes to oak management!
The winery is built over three floors so that gravity alone is used to transfer the must from one stage of the vinification process to the next. Fermentation occurs naturally using wild yeasts from their vineyards in their large, home-produced oak casks.
“La Contessa” white is a blend of 55% Pinot Bianco, 28% Chardonnay and 17% Sauvignon Blanc coming from two vineyards; one a warm, west-facing site on volcanic porphyry soils at 300m altitude near Terlan, the other a cooler east-facing site on rich, clay soils at 500m near Caldaro. The wine is matured on its lees for nine months in cask before blending and bottling.
“Il Conte” red is a blend of 41% Merlot, 38% Lagrein and 21% Cabernet Sauvignon coming from two of the warmest vineyards in the Alto Adige, facing southeast and overlooking the Lago di Cardaro on soils rich in limestone, gravel and clay. The wine is matured for 12 months in 225l used oak barrels before blending and bottling.