Domaine du Closel Savennieres Vendanges Le Grand Gel – 2017

2017 was an extremely difficult vintage in Savennieres and most of the crop was destroyed by a severe frost in late April. This very special wine is the one and only Chenin Blanc the domaine was able to produce in this vintage and was made in tiny quantities – only 1700bts were produced from their 12 hectares of Chenin Blanc vines! The resulting wine is extremely impressive – dry, intense, fairly full bodied and very complex, with a wide range of stone fruit and citrus flavours. The finish is extremely long and full of minerality. This will age for 30 years+!

“The 2017 Savennières Vendanges Le Grand Gel is the only wine I tasted from that vintage whose harvest yields were terribly reduced by spring frost. Only 1,700 bottles were filled of this wine that unites the fruit of 10- to 60-year-old vines on the schist plateau of Savennières. The grapes were handpicked on September 21-22 with a record-low yield of 0.92 hectoliters per hectare (no joke!). The wine opens with a pure, refined and fresh, wonderfully aromatic and slightly oxidative bouquet. Intense and concentrated on the palate, this is a full-bodied, firmly structured yet also finessed and elegant Chenin with a sustainable mineral character and stimulating salinity. In fact, this is a great wine with an iodine character and a great phenolic structure. 13.85% alcohol. Tasted in May 2021.” 96pts Wine Advocate

“For at least 10 years, Evelyne de Pontbriand’s Domaine du Closel has been one of the traditional stellar producers of lively, authentic Savennières. Certified organic and biodynamic, the goal of the domaine, which is located at Château des Vaults in the center of the commune of Savennières, is to “maintain the biological balance and respect the natural cycles of the ecosystem” as well as the whole terroir that is to be represented in each single cuvée. The musts ferment with the exclusive help of indigenous yeast in the deepest part of the old cellar. The process takes the time it needs to make great vin de terroir, which is, according to Evelyne, characterized by its “richness and aromatic complexity.” The wines are kept on the fine lees without the addition of sulfur, with the malolactic fermentation fully done. Sulfur is only added before bottling but also used to preserve the barrels when empty. “It took me a long time to find my personal style,” Evelyne said, when we met at the château about three years ago. “I was already 50 when I started here, but for a few years now, I believe I have found what I think is the best style for my vineyards.” Well, each vintage is different, but this is what the wines should reflect as well. Yet when it comes to the particular style of Domaine du Closel, then I would describe it as elegance, finesse and textural complexity as well as with subtle energy and stimulating salinity on the finish. Last but not least, these are wonderful gastronomic wines, especially when you serve fish or seafood.” Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate