Pierre Yves Colin-Morey St Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly – 2022

“The 2022 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly exhibits aromas of crisp stone fruit, white flowers, blanched almonds and iodine, followed by a medium to full-bodied, ample and enveloping palate that’s seamless and pure, with racy acids and a saline finish.

The 2022 vintage is another success for Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, in style somewhat reminiscent, at this early stage, of the estate’s 2020s. As ever, picking tends to be on the early side with a view to retaining freshness. As readers may know, Colin’s bigger cuvées are crushed and see four-hour press cycles, whereas smaller cuvées aren’t crushed but see even longer press cycles lasting five or more hours. Vinification and maturation in barrel, with a heavy emphasis on larger-format barrels, follow. As I wrote last year, since moving to his new, much colder cellars in Chassagne-Montrachet, he finds his wines retain significantly more free sulfur dioxide for any given addition, and he now feels he added more than was necessary—given these altered conditions—to his 2015s, 2016s and 2017s. So, some subtle adjustments have now been made in this regard, and readers can expect the wines to be a little less buttoned up out of the gates than has been the case in those three vintages. Now Pierre-Yves has so much space, he’s also thinking about further extending the élevage of his lower appellations; in the next two or three years, he’s contemplating fermenting and maturing them in 350-liter barrels for a year, before racking them to tronconic wooden vats for further time on the lees.” 92-94pts The Wine Advocate