Domaine Luneau-Papin Excelsior Muscadet Sevre et Maine Goulaine – 2021

This top quality, biodynamically certified domaine comprises 40 hectares of mainly old vine Melon de Bourgogne grapes. Husband and wife team Pierre-Marie and Marie Luneau Papin are the ninth generation of this winemaking family. Goulaine is the most northerly “cru” of the Muscadet Sevre et Maine appellation, situated on slopes overlooking the Goulaine wetlands about 45kms from the Atlantic Ocean.

Their flagship “Excelsior” wine comes from vines planted in 1936 in the heart of the “Goulaine” Cru. It is made as naturally as possible using wild (native) yeasts from the vineyard for fermentation in underground glass lined vats. It then spends a further 20 months’ ageing on its lees to add complexity and personality before bottling. Muscadet really does not come better than this!

This is pure, restrained and mineral on the nose. On the palate it is elegant and fine, with amazing concentration, intensity and length and juicy, saline acidity. This is a true “terroir wine”, a wine which perfectly expresses its schistous soils and its vineyard site overlooking the expansive Loire river and Goulaine marshes. As Tamlyn Currin writes on Jancisrobinson.com, “it tastes of the wide sky above it and of tangerines and tangerine peel and beeswax candles. And it feels utterly, utterly alive.” She awarded the 2017 vintage 18.5/20pts

Decanter magazine awarded the 2020 vintage 95/100pts (its top scoring Muscadet) in October 2024 with the following note:-

“Exceptionally layered. Delicate honeysuckle scents tinged with white pepper and crushed stones. There’s serious heft and such a silky smooth mouthfeel, gorgeous and flowing in texture, with abundant acidity. The finish is endless, drawing out smoky, flinty characters. Feels like it’s brimming with potential, quivering with energy. Massal-selection vines planted in 1936.”